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"movies": [], "text": "The ascent of Katie Holmes, Billy Porter\u2019s Oscars gown and the welcome end of the Victoria\u2019s Secret show \u2013 we look back at the highs and lols to remember, as well as those best left behind\n\nThe Celine Dion award for unexpected fashion icon: Katie Holmes\n\nFor many, Holmes, now 40, will remain the awkward but erudite teen she played on Dawson\u2019s Creek 20 years ago. For others, she is the woman once married to that famous Scientologist who declared his love for her by jumping up and down on Oprah\u2019s sofa. But for followers of fashion, Holmes has become 2019\u2019s answer to Celine Dion \u2013 with Monica from Friends a close second.\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest The look 2019 needed \u2026 Monica from Friends. Photograph: NBC via Getty Images\n\nBut while Dion whooped and clapped her way to style icon status from the front row of couture shows in 2017, wearing flashy Balenciaga and Off-White outfits, Holmes\u2019s ascent has been all together more low-key. Exhibit A: casually stepping out in a cashmere cardigan worn so louchely that the matching cashmere bra underneath, available from Khaite for $520, sold out in minutes \u2013 no small feat for a bra that costs more than the average monthly food shop for a family of four. Exhibit B: a chunky knit cardigan over a denim shirt with black leather trousers worn to a New York fashion show; a high-fashion version of what her Dawson\u2019s Creek character might have worn for a date with Pacey.\n\nThe \u2018most fashion\u2019 flower: lavender\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest Enough to put you to sleep \u2026 the Jacquemus show Photograph: Arnold Jerocki/WireImage\n\nGypsophila might have had an autumn/winter moment, but it was the floral setting of the 10th anniversary show of French designer Jacquemus \u2013 labelled the kind of show \u201cthat Instagram was made for\u201d \u2013 that had the hearts of the botanically inclined beating the fastest. Hosted in a field in Provence, the soporific fleur de choix was the perfect backdrop for the designer\u2019s oversized blazers, bucket hats and bumbags.\n\nMost impractical accessory: the nano bag\n\nAt Paris fashion week in March, the year\u2019s least useful accessory was carried between thumb and forefinger down the Jacquemus catwalk, bright red yet barely visible. The Mini Le Chiquito, as it is known, became the patron saint of the nano bags trend \u2013 utterly useless, they couldn\u2019t even fit your keys, and yet they became highly desirable, representing the ultimate power move. Who needs a massive tote when you have an assistant or car waiting?\n\nNano bags are the younger sibling of this year\u2019s trend for extremely specific bags. There was Balenciaga\u2019s \u00a3600 water bottle bag, bags made to fit lipsticks and others perfectly tailored to fit phones. And the most stylish was part of Paco Rabanne\u2019s retro chainmail collection.\n\nThe nano bag\u2019s place in 2019 fashion history was recently cemented when Lizzo pincered a Valentino version on the red carpet at the AMAs. As she put it on Instagram: \u201cbag big enough for my fucks to give\u201d.\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest Vanishing point \u2026 Lizzo at the AMAs. Photograph: Axelle/Bauer-Griffin/FilmMagic\n\nMost potent accessory: Lady Hale\u2019s spider brooch\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest Catching Johnson in her web \u2026 Brenda Hale. Photograph: Supreme Court/PA\n\nWhen the judge wore this arachnid accessory to announce that Boris Johnson\u2019s prorogation of parliament was unlawful, people were quick to try to decode what message she might have been hoping to send. Was it that she had caught the democracy-dodging prime minister in a judicial web? Whatever was intended, the spider brooch, described by Vogue as \u201cmaximalist perfection\u201d, became a breakout star.\n\nBut Lady Hale wasn\u2019t alone in sparking chatter with her brooch. The speaker of the House Nancy Pelosi wore a pin representing the Mace of the United States House of Representatives as she opened the debate about Trump\u2019s impeachment. It was quickly dubbed her \u201cpower pin\u201d.\n\nAn honourable mention must also go to headbands. They might have less political heft than the brooch, but have almost as much historical weight as a Mantel novel, and made Anne Boleyn one of the year\u2019s unlikely style inspirations.\n\nMen\u2019s style inspiration: Timoth\u00e9e Chalamet\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest Call me by my dress sense \u2026 Timoth\u00e9e Chalamet (centre) in a Haider Ackermann suit at the Venice film festival. Photograph: Theo Wargo/Getty Images\n\nA sequinned Louis Vuitton hoodie on the carpet one day, an elephant-grey ensemble by Colombian-French designer Haider Ackermann the next; the Call Me By Your Name actor is unafraid of the bold, conceptual and sartorially tricky. But that adventurousness has not put people off. His style has won him the moniker \u201cthe most influential man in fashion\u201d, according to Lyst\u2019s 2019 report, which analyses the behaviour of more than 104 million shoppers. He was pipped to the post of the \u201cWorld\u2019s Most Powerful Dresser\u201d only by HRH the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle herself. Proof that the unorthodox can be enviable in the sometimes identikit world of men\u2019s fashion. He even managed to make the world\u2019s trickiest hairstyle, the bowl cut, an unlikely hit.\n\nMost ubiquitous item: the spotty Zara dress\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest Conquering all \u2026 Zara\u2019s polka-dot print dress. Photograph: Zara\n\nIt cost \u00a340, was hailed as being as comfortable as a nightie and was as ubiquitous on the UK\u2019s streets throughout the summer as chewing gum or pigeons. One article in the New York Times even claimed that the Zara dress had \u201cconquered Britain\u201d, so widespread was it. Plus, like the green Urban Outfitters puffer jacket and R\u00e9alisation Par leopard-print skirt before it, it had that most modern of popularity yardsticks: its own Instagram account complete with more than 20,000 followers.\n\nBest red carpet look: Billy Porter at the Oscars\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest \u2018\u201cPeople are going to be really uncomfortable with my black ass in a ball gown\u2019 \u2026 Billy Porter. Photograph: Richard Shotwell/Invision/AP\n\nPorter\u2019s own take on the Christian Siriano gown he wore to the Oscars in February rang true: \u201cThat dress changed the world,\u201d he said. It was a two fingers up to the rigid gender diktats controlling red-carpet outfits \u2013 as Porter told Vogue at the time: \u201cWhen you\u2019re black and you\u2019re gay, one\u2019s masculinity is in question. I dealt with a lot of homophobia in relation to my clothing choices.\u201d This dress, he said, made him feel free. \u201cPeople are going to be really uncomfortable with my black ass in a ball gown \u2013 but it\u2019s not anybody\u2019s business but mine.\u201d\n\nHair trend: lilac\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest Gathering lilac \u2026 Kylie Jenner at the Met Gala Photograph: Kevin Tachman/MG19/Getty Images for The Met Museum/Vogue\n\nThis year, palma violets, hydrangeas and Googel the Muppet have been added to hairdresser moodboards across the land. In March, searches on Pinterest for \u201clilac hair\u201d rocketed by 1077%. And then, in May, when Kylie Jenner stepped on to the Met Gala red carpet with hair the colour of Syringa vulgaris, she cemented a trend that would see Instagram awash with lilac tresses long into the summer months. For autumn/winter, the trend evolved into more season-appropriate chocolate lilac hair.\n\nBest heels wearer: Harry Styles\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest Heel be happy \u2026 Harry Styles. Photograph: Tim Walker\n\nIn a year in which Asos sold more than 12,000 pairs of Cuban-heel boots for men, the man with the David Bowie legs takes the crown as most accomplished wearer of such heels, after he wore them with aplomb \u2013 and a pearl earring \u2013 to the Met Gala in May. Honourable mention must also go to Lil Nas X who wore a chunky fluoro heel to match his fluoro suit, the work of this year\u2019s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award winner, Christopher John-Rogers, to the American Music Awards last month.\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest Chunky citrus \u2026 Lil Nas X at the AMAs. Photograph: Rich Fury/Getty Images\n\nThrowback hit: the Fendi baguette bag\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest The Fendi classic in action, with a mini-me purse \u2026 Photograph: Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images\n\nAccording to the 2019 Lyst report, there was a 164% rise in searches year on year for this 90s classic. For those who can afford it, it is the perfect accompaniment for all the spaghetti straps, slip dresses and balayage tresses that have made up this year\u2019s retro resurgence. Available for new thanks to Fendi relaunching it, or via the more sustainable secondhand route thanks to resale sites such as Vestiaire Collective, 2019 was the year to channel Carrie Bradshaw via your handbag.\n\nThe saddest goodbye: Karl Lagerfeld\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest Stylish exit \u2026 Lagerfeld in 2018. Photograph: Stephane Cardinale - Corbis/Corbis via Getty Images\n\nHis legacy in the wider world might be \u2013 to put it mildly \u2013 mixed, but the fashion industry this year has been hit hard by the loss of the Chanel designer, who died in February. Known for catwalk spectaculars, it is fascinating to speculate what he would of made of the now infamous YouTube comedian who crashed the catwalk at the first ready-to-wear collection produced entirely by his successor Virginie Viard.\n\nHis memory lived on throughout the year, via The White Shirt project, a stadium-sized Parisian memorial and a new coffee table book of pictures of his cat Choupette.\n\nThe happiest goodbye: the Victoria\u2019s Secret show\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest Not Victoria\u2019s Secret \u2026 the Savage X Fenty show in New York. Photograph: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Savage X Fenty Show Presented by Amazon Prime Video\n\nIt was the year in which unrealistic, prescriptive body standards, as championed by the Victoria\u2019s Secret brand, were pitted against the inclusivity of Rihanna\u2019s Fenty brand, which had its made-for-Amazon debut at New York fashion week in September. And, true to the unstoppability of the Barbadian star in the year in which she became luxury conglomerate LVMH\u2019s first black female designer, Rihanna came out on top. Last month it was announced that the Victoria\u2019s Secret show would be cancelled after months of speculation.\n\nThe most improved garment: the cardigan\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest Taking the cardigan to nirvana \u2026 Kurt Cobain On MTV Unplugged in 1993. Photograph: Frank Micelotta Archive/Getty Images\n\nWhen Kurt Cobain\u2019s stained, moth-eaten green cardigan reached \u00a3260,388 at auction in October it was symbolic of the value increasingly bestowed on this once overlooked garment. Where once cardigan wearers might fear being labelled \u201cdowdy\u201d, now they can stand proud thanks to the ascent of cardigans to catwalks from Alexander Wang and Chanel to Ashley Williams and Christopher Kane.\n\nFashion\u2019s favourite author: Willa Cather\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest Frill lit \u2026 Willa Cather Photograph: New York Times/Getty Images\n\nWomen from catwalks to pavements this year have been wearing frocks that wouldn\u2019t have looked out of place on the prairie. It was the look that wouldn\u2019t give up the Laura Ashley ghost, having kicked off in 2018 with Brooklyn designer Batsheva Hay as its poster girl. In 2019 it went mass, and wearing a dress with a jaw-high neckline, tibia-long hemline and plentiful valance-style dust-ruffle-frills was a quick way to look as if you knew your way around the pages of Vogue \u2013 and Willa Cather\u2019s novel O Pioneers!\n\nMost unlikely site of fashion buzz: the North Circular Road\n\nNot usually mentioned in the same breath as fashion industry buzz but the outer London home of traffic jams and self-storage depots became a hotspot this year when a collection by Louis Vuitton menswear designer and Kanye West protoge Virgil Abloh landed at the Wembley branch of Ikea. People queued through the night and the spot gained instant fashion credibility. As one queuer put it: \u201cWe are buying Louis Vuitton stuff for the price of Ikea.\u201d\n\nMost literal literal dresser: Melania Trump\n\nFacebook Twitter Pinterest \u2018London, baby\u2019 \u2026 Melania Trump. Photograph: Jim Watson/AFP/Getty Images\n\nWhen Melania Trump headed to the UK in June, she did so in an outfit that, in a cod Cockney accent, said: \u201cLondon, baby\u201d. The Gucci dress was decorated with images of Tower Bridge, Big Ben and a double-decker bus. For the year\u2019s best example of \u201cliteral dressing\u201d look no further than Rihanna at the cricket in Durham \u2013 all in white but not a V-neck knit in sight.", "keywords": [], "meta_keywords": ["Fashion", "Life and style", "Women", "Dresses", "Men's coats and jackets", "Men's fashion", "Handbags", "Accessories", "Karl Lagerfeld", "Blouses", "Fashion industry", "Haute couture shows", "Culture"], "tags": [], "authors": ["Ellie Violet Bramley"], "publish_date": "Tue Dec 31 00:00:00 2019", "summary": "", "article_html": "", "meta_description": "The ascent of Katie Holmes, Billy Porter\u2019s Oscars gown and the welcome end of the Victoria\u2019s Secret show \u2013 we look back at the highs and lols to remember, as well as those best left behind", "meta_lang": "en", "meta_favicon": "https://assets.guim.co.uk/images/favicons/fee5e2d638d1c35f6d501fa397e53329/152x152.png", "meta_data": {"description": "The ascent of Katie Holmes, Billy Porter\u2019s Oscars gown and the welcome end of the Victoria\u2019s Secret show \u2013 we look back at the highs and lols to remember, as well as those best left behind", "format-detection": "telephone=no", "HandheldFriendly": "True", "viewport": "width=device-width,minimum-scale=1,initial-scale=1", "apple-mobile-web-app-title": "Guardian", "application-name": "The Guardian", "msapplication-TileColor": "#052962", "theme-color": "#052962", "msapplication-TileImage": "https://assets.guim.co.uk/images/favicons/023dafadbf5ef53e0865e4baaaa32b3b/windows_tile_144_b.png", "author": "Ellie Violet Bramley", "thumbnail": "https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/794ff89eff36ec49ed09ac2f104dfac5c79ad97b/0_6_1654_992/master/1654.jpg?width=620&quality=85&auto=format&fit=max&s=d23b69f6091c3b695d71c99d831c84e5", "keywords": "Fashion,Life and style,Women,Dresses,Men's coats and jackets,Men's fashion,Handbags,Accessories,Karl Lagerfeld,Blouses,Fashion industry,Haute couture shows,Culture", "news_keywords": "Fashion,Life and style,Women,Dresses,Men's coats and jackets,Men's fashion,Handbags,Accessories,Karl Lagerfeld,Blouses", "og": {"url": "http://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/dec/31/pointless-handbags-and-portentous-brooches-the-year-in-fashion", "image": "https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/794ff89eff36ec49ed09ac2f104dfac5c79ad97b/0_6_1654_992/master/1654.jpg?width=1200&height=630&quality=85&auto=format&fit=crop&overlay-align=bottom%2Cleft&overlay-width=100p&overlay-base64=L2ltZy9zdGF0aWMvb3ZlcmxheXMvdGctZGVmYXVsdC5wbmc&enable=upscale&s=e1e53d9d51b4e8797538185ec1a460a6", "description": "The ascent of Katie Holmes, Billy Porter\u2019s Oscars gown and the welcome end of the Victoria\u2019s Secret show \u2013 we look back at the highs and lols to remember, as well as those best left behind", "type": "article", "title": "Pointless handbags and portentous brooches: the year in fashion", "site_name": "the Guardian"}, "article": {"author": "https://www.theguardian.com/profile/ellie-violet-bramley", "publisher": "https://www.facebook.com/theguardian", "section": "Fashion", "published_time": "2019-12-31T06:01:27.000Z", "tag": "Fashion,Life and style,Women,Dresses,Men's coats and jackets,Men's fashion,Handbags,Accessories,Karl Lagerfeld,Blouses,Fashion industry,Haute couture shows,Culture", "modified_time": "2019-12-31T06:09:58.000Z"}, "al": {"ios": {"url": "gnmguardian://fashion/2019/dec/31/pointless-handbags-and-portentous-brooches-the-year-in-fashion?contenttype=Article&source=applinks", "app_store_id": 409128287, "app_name": "The Guardian"}}, "fb": {"app_id": 180444840287, "pages": 516977308337360}, "twitter": {"app": {"id": {"iphone": 409128287, "ipad": 409128287, "googleplay": "com.guardian"}, "name": {"googleplay": "The Guardian", "ipad": "The Guardian", "iphone": "The Guardian"}, "url": {"ipad": "gnmguardian://fashion/2019/dec/31/pointless-handbags-and-portentous-brooches-the-year-in-fashion?contenttype=Article&source=twitter", "googleplay": "guardian://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/dec/31/pointless-handbags-and-portentous-brooches-the-year-in-fashion", "iphone": "gnmguardian://fashion/2019/dec/31/pointless-handbags-and-portentous-brooches-the-year-in-fashion?contenttype=Article&source=twitter"}}, "image": "https://i.guim.co.uk/img/media/794ff89eff36ec49ed09ac2f104dfac5c79ad97b/0_6_1654_992/master/1654.jpg?width=1200&height=630&quality=85&auto=format&fit=crop&overlay-align=bottom%2Cleft&overlay-width=100p&overlay-base64=L2ltZy9zdGF0aWMvb3ZlcmxheXMvdGctZGVmYXVsdC5wbmc&s=565f1a613fd574b0494343d984bbd98f", "site": "@guardian", "card": "summary_large_image", "dnt": "on"}}, "canonical_link": "https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2019/dec/31/pointless-handbags-and-portentous-brooches-the-year-in-fashion"}